Turkish food on Green Lanes, Harringay
Green Lanes between Manor House and Turnpike Lane is the densest strip of Turkish restaurants in Europe outside Istanbul. This walk runs south to north along the west side and back down the east, covering the ocakbaşı houses, kahvaltı cafés, bakeries and the supermarkets behind them.
How to walk it
Start at Manor House station and walk north. The first half-mile is grills and kebab houses, the older ocakbaşı places among them; the middle stretch around the Salisbury pub has the bakeries, patisseries and künefe shops; the northern end toward Turnpike Lane has the kahvaltı houses and the newer cafés. Cross at the top and come back down the other side. Allow an hour without stopping, which you will.
What to eat where
A mixed grill at one of the counter-seat ocakbaşı houses in the southern stretch; lahmacun from a bakery window in the middle; baklava or künefe from a patisserie; and if it is morning, a serpme breakfast at the top end where the queues are. Ayran everywhere. Prices are the keenest in London because the customers are Turkish and will walk next door.
The supermarkets and butchers
The Turkish supermarkets along the strip supply the restaurants and are the best place in London to buy Turkish cheese, sucuk, pepper paste, yufka and fresh bread; the butchers sell lamb cut for shish and hand-minced meat for Adana. Most stay open late.
When to go
Sunday morning for breakfast, any evening after seven for the grills, after eleven for the late-night ocakbaşı trade. Saturday nights are loud and the best rooms are full by eight.
Stops along the way
Manor House end
Older ocakbaşı houses with counter seats; the grills that set the standard.
Around the Salisbury
Bakeries, patisseries and künefe shops; lahmacun from the window.
Turnpike Lane end
Kahvaltı houses with Sunday queues; newer cafés.
The supermarkets
Turkish cheese, sucuk, yufka, bread, and butchers cutting for shish and Adana.